Complexities of Life at Middleton Place

Toward the end of our stay on Hilton Head Island this spring, my wife decided she'd like to see more of Charleston, SC. We'd been there once before and both of us had thoroughly enjoyed the earlier visit. The only problem with Charleston is that it needs to be savored in small doses. There is no good way to rush around trying to see everything within a short time frame. I would have been more pleased if we could have simply gone up to Charleston and explored for a week. Since that, however, was not a feasible plan this year, we decided to focus on one of Charleston's greatest gems -- the restored rice plantation named Middleton Place.

We essentially spent the better part of a day at Middleton Place. For me, the visit was a sumptuous immersion into the great beauty of one of America's oldest and most spectacular gardens. Yet it was also equally part of a personal, on-going education into Southern culture, most notably increasing my understanding of the complexities of the immense differences between north and south, developing a better sense of plantation culture, and glimpsing briefly the reality of the terrible destruction brought about by the Civil War.

Middleton Place was no small undertaking. For instance, in the antebellum period records show that water buffalo from Constantinople were imported as draft animals. These water buffalo were well-suited to the deep muck in which rice is grown. Likewise, the Middleton family had a deep and abiding interest in formal gardens. In 1786, Andre Michaux, a French botanist, was invited to spend time there. He cultivated the first camellias ever grown in an American garden.

Three of the plants, now above 15 feet in height, survive to this day. A later Middleton also introduced the Asiatic azalea and a crape myrtle (one of the oldest specimens of its kind in America), to the grounds. The pièce de résistance, however, is South Carolina's oldest live oak tree with a trunk more than 10 feet in diameter. In pre-Revolution times, Greenhouses and the terraces above the Ashley River were filled with exotic plants and trees. And today, on the far bank above Rice Mill Pond, more than 30,000 azaleas bloom every spring. Up to this time I have always been impressed with "Amen Corner" at Augusta National, but in comparison (and with all due respect) that's merely a small part of a golf course decorated with some flowering shrubs.

In all, the restored grounds presently consist of 65 carefully tended acres dating back to the 1740's. They are considered to be the oldest landscaped gardens in America, having been built according to the grand design of the Palace of Versailles;

featuring swans, allees, sundials, statues, sculpted terraces, parterres and reflection pools -- all integrated into an elegant design of symmetry and balance. So what we have here is a full-fledged restored rice plantation as well as a large, fully landscaped estate. It took many black slaves to maintain these interrelated endeavors in the early days before Emancipation.

As for the owners, the Middleton family began establishing their plantation in the 1730's. John Middleton's son-in-law Henry Middleton continued construction on the main house, implemented the gardens in earnest, represented South Carolina at the First Continental Congress and became that body's first president. His son, Arthur Middleton, was born at Middleton Place, rose in politics and was a signer of the Declaration of Independence. After the birth of the nation, Arthur Middleton's progeny oversaw the transition of Middleton Place from an attractive country residence to a large, economically-successful rice plantation. Then came the war. In 1860 William Middleton became the first South Carolinian to sign his state's Ordinance of Secession. The attack on Fort Sumter a few miles away and a year later sparked the great conflagration.

Throughout its life to that point, Middleton Place and the Middleton family had owned hundreds of slaves. Most were treated well, and occasionally a few were even set free. During the Revolutionary War period many left with the British who resettled them in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. They became known as Black Loyalists. Others joined Hessian regiments. Still others escaped to Indian lands. At the outbreak of the Civil War, the re-established plantation experienced many new runaways while some joined Company G of the 34th U.S. Color Guard. The plantation began to decline in the absence of its owners.

On 17 February 1865 the City of Charleston fell to the Union Army. On 23 February while exploring the Ashley River Road, a medical officer, Dr. H.O. Marcy, attached to the 34th, came upon Middleton Place. From his diary it is quoted:

"All here was in confusion -- the slaves had heard the news from their friends and they were making ready to leave... The colored people flocked around me and gave various demonstrations of joy... All wanted to shake hands. One of them, Isaac, a very intelligent man, said he had been placed in charge of a party to go up country but had contrived to get away and had returned home to Middleton." [Marcy]

At the same time at Middleton Place was a detachment of the 56th New York Volunteers (New York's Newburgh area) who dined on  several of the water buffalo and then proceeded to burn the property.

The following day Marcy was ordered by his commanding officer to return to the plantation and,

"... do what I can to repair the damage done yesterday.  The colored people were robbed indiscriminately. My first object was to get them together and advise them to leave. There was a schooner and several flats still docked at the bend in the river. All determined to leave. I advised them to float down to Charleston. All of the principal buildings are a mass of ruins. Accompanied by Isaac I rode down to Horse Savannah (neighboring plantation). Here I found another 150 slaves. After a talk, they too were ready to leave for town." [Marcy]

Yet some of the slaves cooperated with the 56th in the burning of Middleton Place. Others loyal to the Middletons helped save some of their belongings, including a Benjamin West family portrait and the Wood Nymph statue. Their mission accomplished, the 56th then moved on to Charleston.

The great plantation, now in ruins, sat idle for more than 50 years. According to Wikipedia: "The restoration of Middleton Place largely began in 1916 with the efforts of Middleton descendant John Julius Pringle Smith (1887–1969) and his wife Heningham, both of whom would spend several decades meticulously rebuilding the plantation's gardens. In the early 1970s, approximately 110 acres (45 ha) of the 7,000-acre (2,800 ha) plantation— including the south flanker, the gardens, and several outbuildings— were placed on the National Register of Historic Places. During the same period the Middleton descendants transferred ownership of the historic district to the non-profit Middleton Place Foundation, which presently maintains the site."

Millions have been spent in the restoration, and millions more were spent to keep the north side of the Ashley River bordered by a broad stretch of trees, and to prevent the incursion of modern North Charleston onto the scene. The Foundation has succeeded in both endeavors. It seems to me that the high price of admission -- not even from a preservationist point of view -- is well worth the cost. One is able to drop back in time 150 years for a truly legitimate experience. It would seem that had it not been destroyed and still remained original, Middleton Place would, most likely, have been assigned World Heritage Site status.

So here we are again, examining my infatuation with American wealth and the subjugation of inordinate numbers of human beings for the benefit of a few. The comparison, of course, is a bit like visiting Newport. Its great mansions are now largely in the hands of foundations too. The preservation of Bellevue Avenue is not terribly different from the restoration of Middleton Place, and ironically, simply there for my viewing and the price of admission. And both my aesthetic and historical bents can be satisfied once again. That said, the human toll remains to be rationalized...

Stay calm and carry on,

Paul in Potsdam

http://www2.potsdam.edu/loucksap
http://loucksap.smugmug.com
http://madstop68.blogspot.com